
Well, Kampala cooled down at last and we eventually set off to Sorotti. It's a seven hour bus journey up to Sorotti town and then a further hour and a half on the back of a boda-boda to get to Acumet. I hadn't originally bargained to do that final hour and a half on the back of a bike and so hadn't thought to bring a sun hat with me. I did my best to fashion one out of my bath towel... No one thought this a strange thing to be wearing; someone even commented that I looked 'smart' - but my efforts were to little avail - i still ended up with a head full of dust and a rather rosy face.
Acumet is an incredible place. The area has been witness to years of civil war and tribal conflict and as a result people have left their homes and their land for safety in numbers in an IDP camp. Thanks to an albeit fragile peace process, there have been no confirmed rebel attacks in Uganda since 2006, but this particular area of the north east is still subject to regular tribal clashes. The Karamajong tribe, who are also currently participating in a disarmament process, make regular raids on camps and villages, taking food, property and cattle. I simply cannot imagine how it must be to live your life under constant threat. To know that anything you build up and work for could be lost at any minute. I've reflected on it a lot lately - of course the same is true for all of us - but the imminence of the threat in this particular area must bring a whole new perspective. The fact that NOTHING is certain and that everything is so transitory stares you bare in the face. From a faith perspective St. Teresa's prayer captures the challenge beautifully -
"Let nothing disturb you,
Let nothing frighten you
Everything passes:
God never changes.
Patience obtains all."
What a monumental challenge! A painfully difficult prayer to have the faith to say in a troubled world. Difficult though it is, i constantly feel the sentiment of it laid bare out here.
Our host in Acumet was an eccentric Ugandan priest. His name is Fr. Wazi-Wazi Gonzaga and he has a massive fluffy moustache. That says pretty much everything you need to know. One evening after dinner he whacked a jug of something out onto the table.
"It's medicine!" he declared,
"Oh! Medicine for what, exactly?" I cautiously enquired.
"It is to help digestion. It is made from fermented passion fruits. In fact, it is recommended to us in the bible by St. Paul in his letter to Timothy" he replied.
I'm yet to find the biblical reference to fermented passion fruits, but I duly took a glass in a good faith! It tasted a bit like port... not sure what it did for my digestion, but it didn't kill and i remain grateful for that.
The people in Acumet have lived incredible, often painful, lives. One of the lads we support told me about his experience of one particular rebel attack on the camp a few years ago. He had been away when the rebels attacked. He came back to his home to find food still cooking on the fire, but no one to be seen for miles. He began to cry, thinking that his mum and brothers and sisters had been killed or abducted. He spent days searching for them, deep in the bush. Eventually he came across someone who directed him to his brother and sister. Despite the danger of travelling anywhere he took his brother on the back of his bike, his sister on the front and cycled the whole way up to Sorotti. If it took me an hour and a half on a motorbike, you can imagine how long it took him with two children on a pedal bike. They stopped and hid along the way, waiting for rebels to pass them before continuing their journey. When he delivered his brother and sister to relative safety in the town, he got back on his bike a cycled right back into the camp to search for his mother, still not knowing whether or not she was alive. After another day, he found her too, hungry and crying deep in the bush. Again, he put his mum on the back of the bike and did the same journey to safety in town. Not content that he had done all he could, he again went back to the camp to look for food for the family. When he arrived, he came across a priest who was driving to the next village. The priest offered to take the lad with him but, for reasons he didn't understand at the time, he didn't want to go. He ran and hid in the toilet, hoping that the priest would leave without him. Sure enough, the priest got bored of waiting and left without him. Hours later, news reached the lad that the vehicle had come under attack and the priest was shot dead. The lad collected together as much food as he could and, for the final time, cycled to safety in Sorotti.
I've known this lad for a while, but had never known this story. And there are countless, countless others with similar tales, often all the more tragic. I'm endlessly blown away by how selfless and determined people can be...and feel unbelievably blessed just to know such incredible individuals.
Unfortunately I had to leave Fr Wazi Wazi behind me and make my way back to Kampala. I'm on my way to Hoima to spend a few weeks there, but am temporarily subject to a doctors order to rest up and swallow lots of pills. The pills are gross and make me burp, but I trust that they'll do the trick. Else I might have to call Fr Wazi Wazi to bring me some more 'medicine'...